3 Easy Ways to Go Faster on a Bicycle

Want to go faster on a bicycle without selling a kidney for carbon wheels or developing a personal feud with every hill in your neighborhood? Good news: speed isn’t only about “pedal harder.” In fact, a lot of “free speed” comes from three places you can improve quickly: aero (how you cut through air), efficiency (how little energy your bike wastes), and smart riding (how you use your body and gears).

This guide synthesizes common, real-world advice shared by reputable U.S.-based cycling sources and organizations like Bicycling, REI Co-op, USA Cycling, Trek, Specialized, Park Tool, Wahoo Fitness, and Silcathen rewrites it into a simple plan you can actually use.

Quick safety note (because speed is fun, but concussions are not): the fastest riders are predictable riders. If you’re riding on roads, follow traffic laws, ride visible, and keep your head upespecially when you start experimenting with position or intervals.

Easy Way #1: Get More Aerodynamic (It’s the Closest Thing to “Free Speed”)

If you’ve ever biked into a headwind and felt like you were pedaling through invisible puddingcongrats, you’ve met aerodynamic drag. At typical road speeds, air resistance becomes a big deal, and the rider usually creates most of it. Translation: you can make a meaningful difference without touching a single bolt on your bike.

1) Make your body smaller to the wind (without turning into a pretzel)

Your goal is a position you can hold, not a 12-second “aero cosplay” that wrecks your neck and makes you sit up every minute. Try these adjustments one at a time:

• Elbows slightly bent instead of locked straight (more control, less “sail”).
• Lower your torso a little by hinging at the hipsnot by rounding your back like a shrimp.
• Relax your shoulders and “tuck” them downtension wastes energy and often pops you upright.
• Keep your head low while still looking forward (imagine a string pulling the crown of your head forward, not up).

A simple test: ride a flat stretch at a steady effort. Lower your torso slightly for 30–60 seconds. If your speed jumps with the same effort, you just found “free speed.” If you start wobbling or can’t see well, back off.

2) Clean up the “flappy stuff”

Aerodynamics isn’t only about fancy bikes; it’s also about not carrying a parachute. Easy wins:

• Zip or snug your jacket (loose fabric flaps = extra drag).
• Secure straps so they don’t whip around in the wind.
• Move bulky items (like a giant backpack) to a bike bag when practical.

3) Make your position “repeatable” with a micro-fit check

You don’t need a full pro bike fitting to benefit from basic comfort. If you’re too stretched out, you’ll sit up to breathe. If your saddle is too low, you’ll mash and fatigue early. Small tweaks can help you stay comfortably “aero” longerwhere the real gains live.

Rule of thumb: the best aero position is the one you can hold while staying safe, stable, and aware of traffic and obstacles.

Easy Way #2: Reduce Rolling Resistance & Drivetrain Drag (Make Every Watt Count)

Think of your bike like a leaky water bottle: you can pedal harder, sure… or you can stop the leaks. Two of the biggest “leaks” for everyday riders are tires and the drivetrain.

1) Tire pressure: don’t just pump to the max

A classic mistake is inflating to the tire’s maximum PSI because it “must be faster.” Modern testing and real-road experience show it’s not that simple: too much pressure can increase vibration losses on imperfect pavement, which can slow you down and beat you up. A better approach is to use the recommended range on the sidewall as a starting point, then adjust for your weight, tire width, and road surface.

Try this practical method:

1. Start in the middle of your tire’s recommended range (printed on the sidewall).
2. Ride the same 10–15 minute loop.
3. Next ride, change pressure by ~3–5 PSI (up or down).
4. Pick the pressure where you feel fast + controlled (not bouncy, not squirmy).

For many riders on typical U.S. roads, “slightly lower than you expected” ends up being both faster and more comfortableespecially with wider tires.

2) Fast tires beat fancy wheels (for most people)

If you ever do spend money, prioritize good tires first. Rolling resistance differences between tires can be noticeable, and grippier, more supple tires can make the bike feel faster because you waste less energy bouncing around on rough pavement. (Also: you’ll enjoy riding more, and enjoyment is suspiciously correlated with consistency.)

3) Keep your chain clean and properly lubed

A dry, gritty chain is basically sandpapering your effort into the void. Regular cleaning and lubrication reduces friction and wear, and it’s one of the cheapest “speed upgrades” you can do. Basic maintenance guidance from major repair resources emphasizes cleaning and then applying an appropriate lubricant, wiping excess, and re-lubing as conditions require (wet, dusty, etc.).

A simple, non-fussy routine:

• After wet rides: wipe the chain, add lube, spin the cranks, wipe off the excess.
• After dusty/gritty rides: wipe more often (dirt turns lube into grinding paste).
• Every couple weeks (or when noisy): a deeper clean of chain and drivetrain.

4) Check for “mystery drag” (the stuff you don’t notice until it’s gone)

• Brake rub: spin the wheelsif you hear shhhh-shhhh, your brakes may be lightly dragging.
• Rubbing fender/tire: common on commuter setups and easy to miss.
• Underinflated tires: even a little low can feel sluggishtop off before rides.

None of this is glamorous. But neither is being passed by someone wearing jeans who looks suspiciously relaxed. (They probably checked their tire pressure.)

Easy Way #3: Ride Smarter (Cadence + Gears + Two Simple Workouts)

The “engine” matters, but the easiest performance gains usually come from how you use the engine. Most riders get faster by improving cadence, shifting earlier, pacing better, and adding a tiny bit of structured training.

1) Aim for a sustainable cadence (your knees will send thank-you notes)

Cadence is how fast you pedal, measured in RPM. Many coaches and training guides commonly point riders toward a general target around 80–90 RPM for steady ridinghigh enough to reduce heavy mashing, low enough to stay controlled.

This isn’t a law of physics carved into granite. It’s a helpful default. On climbs you may be lower; on descents or fast flats you may be higher. The real goal is: avoid grinding a huge gear at 50–60 RPM until your legs feel like microwaved noodles.

Quick cadence self-check (no fancy sensors required):

• Count one leg’s pedal strokes for 15 seconds and multiply by 4.
• If you’re consistently under ~70 on flats, try shifting down and spinning a bit more.

2) Shift earlier than you think (smooth is fast)

Many riders shift only when it’s already “too hard,” which forces a big effort spikethen they recover by sitting up, coasting, or both. Instead, shift before the hill or before the wind hits so your cadence stays steadier. Smooth power is faster than stop-and-go heroics.

3) Add two workouts per week (short, simple, effective)

You don’t need a complicated plan. Try these two sessions once a week each, with easy rides in between. Keep them controlled and safechoose low-traffic routes or a bike path where stopping isn’t chaotic.

Workout A: “Cadence Comfort” Builds (10–15 minutes total)

This workout trains your legs to spin smoothly, which helps you hold speed without feeling like your pedals are fighting back. A common drill is to start around 80–90 RPM and build higher for short bursts, fully recovering between efforts.

• Warm up 10 minutes easy.
• Do 5 rounds of: 30 seconds gradually increasing cadence (smooth, not bouncy) + 90 seconds easy.
• Cool down 5 minutes easy.

Workout B: “Steady Strong” Intervals (about 25–35 minutes)

This workout builds the ability to hold a faster pace for longerbasically, it makes “going faster” feel less dramatic. Use a breathing-based effort guide if you don’t have a power meter: hard but controlled, you can say short phrases, but you’re not gasping.

• Warm up 10 minutes easy.
• Do 4 x 4 minutes at “hard but controlled,” with 3 minutes easy between.
• Cool down 5–10 minutes easy.

If you want a hill-focused version, USA Cycling outlines structured climbing cadence work on a steady grade, using timed segments to compare how different cadences feel and how your breathing responds.

4) Bonus: strength training (optional, but surprisingly helpful)

You can absolutely get faster by riding alone. But if you add even 2 short strength sessions per week (basic squats, hinges, lunges, core stability), many riders feel more stable, more powerful, and less “fragile” late in rides. Major cycling outlets regularly emphasize strength work for durability and performance.

Putting It All Together: A Simple “Go Faster” Checklist

Before your next ride, pick one thing from each category. Keep it simple:

Aero (1 minute)

• Elbows soft, shoulders relaxed, torso slightly lower (safe visibility first).
• Zip/secure anything flappy.

Efficiency (2 minutes)

• Check tire pressure (within the recommended range, tuned to your roads).
• Quick chain wipe + lube if it’s noisy or looks dry.

Smart riding (during the ride)

• Spin near a comfortable cadence on flats (often around 80–90 RPM).
• Shift early to avoid grinding.
• Hold steady effort instead of sprint-coast-repeat.

Do this consistently and you’ll start noticing a pattern: your average speed rises not because you’re suffering more, but because you’re wasting less.

of Real-World Experiences: What Riders Notice When They Use These Tips

Here’s the funny thing about getting faster on a bicycle: the best improvements often feel almost… boring. Not “boring” like watching paint drymore like “Wait, that’s it?” boring. And that’s a compliment. Speed gained through aerodynamics, efficiency, and smarter riding tends to show up as smoother rides, steadier breathing, and less of that dramatic end-of-ride collapse where you lean your bike against a wall like you’ve just completed an epic quest.

A common first “aha” moment happens with position. Riders will lower their torso a little, bend their elbows, and suddenly notice they can keep the same pace with less effortespecially into headwinds or on open roads. It’s not magic; it’s just that the wind isn’t slapping their chest like a giant invisible hand anymore. The best part is that it’s measurable: you look down, see a slightly higher speed, and think, “Either I’m faster or the universe turned the difficulty setting down.” (Spoiler: it’s you.)

The second “why didn’t anyone tell me this sooner?” moment tends to come from tires. Riders who always pumped to the max PSI often describe their old setup as harsh and jitterylike their bike was auditioning to be a jackhammer. When they experiment within the recommended pressure rangeespecially on typical cracked pavementthey often find a sweet spot where the bike feels more planted in corners and somehow rolls better. The ride becomes quieter, too, which is cycling’s version of your car suddenly running smoothly after you finally stop ignoring the “check engine” light.

Then there’s the chain. People don’t expect a clean drivetrain to feel like a performance upgrade, but it does. Riders describe it as “the bike feels lighter” or “it accelerates easier,” even though the bike’s weight didn’t change. The difference is that fewer watts are being sanded away by grime. It’s the same satisfaction as cutting through a tomato with a sharp knife: you didn’t get strongerthe tool got better.

Finally, the biggest long-term change comes from cadence and pacing. Riders who used to mash big gears often report their legs burning early and their speed fading late. After practicing a steadier spin and shifting earlier, they notice they can finish rides with something left in the tankenough to handle the last hill, keep pace with friends, or simply enjoy the final miles instead of bargaining with the universe. The first few rides can feel weird (spinning can feel “too easy” at first), but after a couple weeks, it starts to feel naturaland fast.

Put all those experiences together and you get the real goal: not just a higher top speed for 20 seconds, but a higher everyday speed that you can hold comfortably, safely, and repeatedly. That’s the kind of fast that actually sticks.

Conclusion: Faster Doesn’t Have to Be Harder

If you take nothing else from this article, take this: Going faster is often about wasting less. Get a bit more aerodynamic, reduce the friction your bike creates, and ride with smarter cadence and pacing. Stack small wins, and your “normal” pace improveswithout turning every ride into a gritty sports movie montage.