How To Build a Storage Ottoman: A Step-by-Step Guide – This Old House

If your living room is slowly disappearing under blankets, game controllers, and that one mysterious remote nobody claims, a storage ottoman might be exactly what you need. It’s part footrest, part coffee table, part secret stashand yes, you can build one yourself even if your main power tool so far has been the TV remote. This guide walks you through how to build a sturdy, upholstered storage ottoman inspired by classic plans from This Old House, plus tips borrowed from other trusted DIY sources like Home Depot, Lowe’s, Family Handyman, and more.

Why Build Your Own Storage Ottoman?

Buying a ready-made ottoman is easybut building your own has a few big advantages:

• Custom size: Make it just right for your sofa, your space, and your feet.
• Hidden storage: Perfect for throws, kids’ toys, board games, or the blanket you pretend is just “for guests.”
• Better quality: Solid plywood, proper foam, and real hinges usually beat the lightweight store-bought versions.
• Style freedom: Choose any upholstery fabric, legs, and hardware you like.
• DIY bragging rights: Few things feel better than putting your feet up on a piece of furniture you built yourself.

Step 1: Plan Your Ottoman & Gather Materials

Before the sawdust starts flying, decide on the basic size of your storage ottoman. For a classic rectangular version that works as a coffee table, many DIYers choose dimensions around 18–20 inches high, 18–24 inches deep, and 30–40 inches long, depending on room size and sofa width.

Suggested Tools

• Circular saw or table saw
• Power drill/driver
• Measuring tape and carpenter’s square
• Pencil and straightedge
• Clamps (very helpful for clean joints)
• Staple gun with staples
• Sanding block or power sander
• Safety gear: safety glasses, hearing protection, dust mask

Basic Materials List

• 3/4-inch plywood for the box sides, bottom, and lid
• 1×1 or 2×2 pine cleats to support the bottom and reinforce corners
• Wood glue and 1 1/4–1 1/2 inch wood screws
• High-density foam for the top (2–3 inches thick)
• Batting to soften the edges and smooth the foam
• Upholstery fabric (usually 3–4 yards, depending on size and pattern match)
• Piano hinge or two sturdy hinges for the lid
• Toy-box lid support or soft-close support for safety
• Feet or casters (optional, but highly recommended)
• Wood filler, primer, and paint or stain for exposed wood (if any)

Step 2: Cut the Plywood Pieces

Once you’ve finalized the dimensions, transfer your measurements to the plywood. A typical rectangular storage ottoman might use:

• 2 long sides (for example, 36″ x 16″)
• 2 short sides (for example, 18″ x 16″)
• 1 bottom panel (34 1/2″ x 16 1/2″, sized to fit inside the box)
• 1 lid panel (36″ x 18″, slightly larger than the opening for a small overhang)

Use a circular saw with a straightedge guide to keep cuts straight and safe. Many pro tutorials recommend cutting all pieces in one session, labeling each piece with pencil as you go so nothing gets mixed up later.

Pro Tip

Lightly sand edges after cutting to remove splinters. It’s easier to handle and helps joints fit more tightly.

Step 3: Assemble the Box Base

This is where your stack of plywood becomes an actual piece of furniture.

1. Dry fit first. Stand the four side panels up in a rectangle to make sure everything lines up.
2. Apply wood glue. Run a thin bead along each joint where the sides meet.
3. Clamp and pre-drill. Clamp the corners square and drill pilot holes along the edges to avoid splitting the plywood.
4. Drive screws. Use evenly spaced screwsabout every 6–8 inchesto pull the box tight.

You now have a base box: a simple open rectangle that will soon become the heart of your storage ottoman.

Step 4: Install Cleats and Bottom Panel

To support the bottom panel, you’ll add cleats around the inside of the box:

1. Mark cleat height. Measure up from the lower edge of each side panel about 3/4″ (the thickness of your plywood bottom) and mark a line around the inside perimeter.
2. Cut cleats. Cut 1×1 or 2×2 pine strips to fit just inside each side.
3. Attach cleats. Glue and screw them along your line, keeping them flush and level.
4. Add corner blocks. For extra strength, screw small blocks of wood into the corners on top of the cleatsthis is a common detail in This Old House and other pro plans.
5. Install the bottom. Drop in the bottom panel so it rests on the cleats, then glue and screw it in place.

At this point, you’ve built a sturdy storage box that could already function as a toy chest or blanket box. But we’re going full ottoman.

Step 5: Prepare and Attach the Lid

The lid needs to be strong enough to sit on and soft enough to be comfy.

Build the Lid Structure

• Cut your lid panel from 3/4″ plywood.
• If you want a thicker, more traditional ottoman profile, you can glue on a 1×2 frame around the underside of the lid to beef up the edge.

Add Foam and Batting

1. Lay your foam on a flat surface and place the plywood lid on top.
2. Trace around the lid and cut the foam with a sharp utility knife or heavy-duty scissors.
3. Use spray adhesive to bond the foam to the plywood.
4. Wrap foam and plywood together in a layer or two of batting, securing the batting to the underside of the lid with staples.

The batting softens any sharp corners and gives your upholstery a smooth, professional look.

Install Hinges and Lid Support

1. Position the lid on the box with an even overhang on all sides.
2. Mark hinge positions along the back edgemany DIY ottoman guides recommend a piano hinge for extra strength, but two or three standard hinges also work.
3. Pre-drill holes and attach the hinges to the lid first, then to the box.
4. Install a toy-box style soft-close support or lid stay. This prevents the lid from slamming on fingersa highly recommended upgrade if you have kids or clumsy adults around.

Step 6: Upholster the Box

Now for the fun, fabric-covered part. Upholstery may sound intimidating, but most DIY storage ottoman tutorials follow the same simple pattern.

Wrap the Sides

1. Cut a long strip of fabric wide enough to cover the height of your box plus 3–4 inches for wrapping under the bottom and over the top edge.
2. Starting on one side, staple the fabric along the underside of the box, pulling it up and around the sides as you go.
3. At the corners, fold the fabric neatly like you’re wrapping a present, then staple inside the box to hide the raw edges.
4. Work your way around until the box is fully wrapped, finishing the fabric with a neat seam at one corner.

Finish the Inside Edge

You can either:

• Staple fabric to the inside just below the top edge and cover the raw edge with decorative trim, or
• Create a simple slipcover-style liner for the interior if you want a fully finished look.

Step 7: Upholster the Lid

The lid is upholstered much like a padded seat cushion.

1. Cut a piece of upholstery fabric big enough to wrap over the foam-covered lid with at least 4 inches extra on all sides.
2. Center the lid (foam side down) on the wrong side of the fabric.
3. Starting at the middle of each side, pull the fabric snug and staple it to the underside of the lid.
4. Work out toward the corners, smoothing wrinkles as you go.
5. For the corners, fold neatly into pleats or rounded folds depending on your fabric thickness and style preference.

If you’re feeling ambitious, you can even add button tufting by threading buttons through the foam and plywood, as shown in many tufted ottoman tutorials from This Old House and Capitol Romance.

Step 8: Add Legs or Casters

Legs instantly make your ottoman look more polished and allow the piece to double as a coffee table.

• Mark leg locations at each corner of the underside.
• Pre-drill holes and install furniture legs or casters according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
• For a modern look, choose simple block feet; for a traditional vibe, try turned wooden bun feet.

Once the legs are on, flip the ottoman upright. Give it a gentle shake to make sure everything is solid and stable.

Step 9: Safety Tips for Tool Use

Even a relatively small project like a storage ottoman deserves serious respect for safetyespecially if you’re using a brad nailer or pneumatic stapler.

• Wear eye and hearing protection when cutting or nailing.
• Keep hands away from the nailing lineOSHA guidelines recommend at least 12 inches of clearance when using nail guns, and many pro tips suggest using clamps instead of your hands to hold narrow pieces.
• Disconnect air tools before clearing jams, moving up and down ladders, or leaving the tool unattended.
• Keep your workspace clean to avoid trips, slips, and accidental tool damage.

Styling Ideas for Your New Storage Ottoman

Once your ottoman is built, the fun continues with styling:

• As a coffee table: Top it with a sturdy tray to hold drinks, candles, or a stack of magazines.
• As extra seating: Place it near a window or bookshelf and add a throw pillow for an instant reading perch.
• In the bedroom: Use it at the foot of a bed to store extra linens, off-season clothes, or shoes.
• In a kids’ room: Choose a durable, washable fabric and use the ottoman to corral toys and books.

And of course, no rule says you can only have one. A pair of smaller storage ottomans can replace a single bulky coffee table and be rearranged easily for parties or movie nights.

500 Extra Words of Real-World Tips & Experience

Reading a step-by-step guide is one thing; actually building the ottoman in a real housewith real mess, pets, and distractionsis another story. Here are some practical lessons and “wish I’d known that earlier” insights drawn from DIYers and home improvement experts who have built storage ottomans of their own.

Choose the Right Fabric (Your Future Self Will Thank You)

On paper, that luxurious white velvet might look spectacular. In real life, it will attract stains, paw prints, and popcorn grease like it’s being paid to do it. Most experienced builders recommend medium- to heavy-weight upholstery fabric with a bit of texturethink twill, canvas, chenille, or performance fabrics designed to resist stains. Patterns with some visual movement (like geometrics or subtle florals) are also better at hiding everyday wear than solid, light colors.

If your home is kid- or pet-heavy, consider a fabric that’s labeled as stain resistant or one that can handle spot cleaning with mild soap. It’s also smart to check the fabric repeatlarge patterns may require extra yardage so the design lines up nicely across the top and sides of the ottoman.

Don’t Skimp on Foam and Batting

It’s tempting to grab the cheapest cushion foam you can find and call it a day. But most DIY tutorialsand many sore backsidesagree that high-density foam makes a huge difference in comfort and longevity. A 2–3 inch thick high-density foam top, wrapped in one or two layers of batting, keeps the ottoman comfortable as both a seat and a footrest, even after years of TV marathons.

If you’re on a budget, you can sometimes piece together smaller offcuts of foam, but try to keep seams away from the center area where people sit or rest their feet. Batting helps camouflage minor foam seams, but it can’t rescue seriously uneven padding.

Pre-Drill Everything (Yes, Everything)

One of the most common rookie mistakes is skipping pilot holes. Plywood layers can split or bulge when screws are driven too close to edges without pre-drilling. Taking a few seconds to drill pilot holes for each screw keeps your box square and your plywood edges intact. Nearly all professional and retail DIY plansfrom This Old House to The Home Depot and Family Handymanemphasize this step for a reason.

Use a drill bit slightly smaller than your screw’s shank, and drill straight in, not at an angle. It’s a small habit that makes your finished ottoman feel rock solid instead of “kinda wobbly but probably fine.”

Test the Lid Before Final Upholstery

Another pro tip: do a test run of the lid hardware before you commit to the final upholstery. Install hinges and the lid support on the bare or foam-covered lid and cycle it open and closed a few times. Make sure:

• The lid opens far enough for easy access.
• The support holds the lid up without slamming shut.
• Nothing scrapes or binds as it moves.

Once everything works smoothly, remove the hardware, upholster the lid, and reinstall through the same holes. This saves you from wrestling a freshly upholstered, fabric-covered top while trying to move hinge positionsnever a fun combination.

Plan Storage Use From Day One

Think about what you want to store inside before you finalize the ottoman’s dimensions. Blankets and pillows? You might want a deeper box. Board games or kids’ toys? A shallower, wider ottoman makes it easier to see everything inside at a glance. Some DIYers even add simple dividers or removable bins inside their ottomans to keep items organizedno more digging through a jumbled pile of random stuff just to find one deck of cards.

If you plan to store anything heavy (books, craft supplies, or workout gear), double-check that your bottom panel is well-supported with cleats and corner blocks. Over time, an unsupported bottom can sag; with proper reinforcement, it should stay sturdy for years.

Take Your Time on the Corners

Even on high-end furniture, corners are where upholstery secrets live. Well-folded corners make your ottoman look custom and expensive; sloppy ones make it feel like a rush job. Many tutorials suggest practicing corner folds on scrap fabric first. Try both “hospital fold” style (like making a bed) and softer, rounded pleats to see what works best with your particular fabric weight and pattern.

Don’t be afraid to pull out a few staples and rework a cornerfabric is surprisingly forgiving, and a little extra effort here pays off every time you see the piece in your living room.

Live With It and Then Customize Further

Finally, remember that your storage ottoman doesn’t have to be perfect on day one. Use it for a few weeks. Notice how you actually interact with it: do you rest drinks on it? Toss backpacks? Use it mostly for lounging? Based on your real-world experience, you can add refinements like:

• A large tray with handles for drinks and snacks.
• Stick-on felt pads under the legs to protect hardwood floors.
• Interior bins or baskets that fit your favorite board games or craft supplies.
• Decorative nailhead trim or handles on the sides for easier moving.

The beauty of a DIY storage ottoman is that it can evolve with your home. As your style, family, or living room layout changes, you can reupholster, repaint the legs, or even adjust the height with new feetwithout starting from scratch.

By following this step-by-step guide and adding your own design twists, you’ll end up with a hardworking storage ottoman that looks like a designer piece but secretly cost far lessand came with a generous helping of DIY satisfaction.